http://www.neonlightssigns.info/wall-hanger/
Wall Hanger
Which guitar wall hanger should I buy?
Hi there
I want to buy a pair of wall hangers for my 2 guitars, there are a lot of sites that sell them but I'm not sure which one to get
I want one that is under 10 pounds
one that wont damage the wall over excessive hanging
one that won't damage my guitar head
My guitar is an ibanez grg170 if that helps
Thanks in advance
Takecareee
Personally, i wouldn't buy any of them. They are good for retail stores to display merchandise, but not very good for home use. Any time you are not playing your guitar, it should be in a case. You can buy one of the floor stands for convenience, but not for storage use. Hanging on the wall exposes the guitar to unnecessary dirt, dust, humidity, etc. These things build up over time and damage the wood, finish, metal and electronics. You'd have to basically take the guitar apart each week and thoroughly clean it if you want to keep hanging on the wall.
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Guitar Wall Hanger Installation Guide
Tips for Working on Plaster Walls
If you live in an older house, say 50 or 60 years or older,
there is a good likelihood that you have plaster on your walls.
Plaster walls were very common, especially in the late 18th
century and 19th century. Plaster was fairly readily available,
was workable, and was capable of producing very smooth walls and
ornate embellishments. It was and is however, very difficult to
worth with. It took a fine plasterer many years to learn his
trade under the careful instruction of a master plasterer.
Plaster is still widely available, though rarely used. Just
check the painting aisles of your local home improvement center
and you'll see it mixed in with spackle and patching compound.
The reason for its demise was the invention of joint compound.
Unlike plaster, joint compound (or drywall compound) is easy to
work with. It is slow to set up and harden, is very easy to
sand, mixes easily, can be purchased already-mixed, and is easy
to clean up. Joint compound works by simply letting the water
evaporate out, leaving the hard, white stuff on the wall.
Plaster, on the other hand, sets up quickly, hardens like
cement, is very difficult to work with once it starts to set up,
is hard to clean up, and must be mixed up as needed and in
quantities that can be worked with quickly. Plaster as it sets
up, is actually a chemical reaction between the solid plaster
and the water.
For this reason, joint compound is the natural choice for most
new homes and patching jobs. However, plaster is by far the
superior product. A plaster wall is rock hard, has a solid
sound, and feel, is not easy damaged or scratched, and can
withstand some abuse. These properties make for some interesting
remodeling and repairs.
A simple task such as hanging a hook for a picture frame can
cause large chunks of plaster to break free from the wall and
come crashing down. Try to drive a drywall screw into plaster
can be an exercise in frustration as chunks break out of the
wall and the screw getting dulled by the plaster, Drill bits and
saw blades dull instantly on contact.
Because of these challenges with plaster, I have compiled a few
tips for working with it. Be aware, that these work for me in
most situations, but plaster can be different and behave
differently in different locations, so work very carefully.
1. When hanging a picture frame from a hook with a nail in it,
first tape a large piece of masking tape over the area where you
will drive the nail. This will help prevent chip-out. Once the
nail is in place, remove the tape. 2. Another way to insert a
wall hanger for a picture frame is to drill a small pilot hole
for the nail. The pilot hole need not be deep. Just deep enough
to penetrate the topcoat of plaster. If you see brown dust
coming from the drill bit, you are through the topcoat and into
the brown coat. 3. To drive a screw through plaster, always
drill a pilot hole! 4. Never use a drywall screw in plaster to
hold anything! Even though it may seem that the plaster is
holding it in place, you risk tearing out a large chunk of
plaster should you find a weak spot. Always screw through the
plaster and into the studs. 5. When screwing through plaster and
into the wall studs, make sure you are into the wall studs and
not the wood lath that holds the plaster on the wall! Pulling
down lath is one of the worst things you can do, as it will pull
down large chunks of plaster with it! 6. Standard stud finders
don't work on plaster walls. You need stud sensors that feature
some sort of deep penetrating technology. Common stud finders
are designed for half-inch drywall walls and can distinguish
plaster thickness very well. 7. Use the tapping technique to
find studs. Plaster has good harmonics and by tapping or rapping
it with your knuckles, you can usually hear the hollows between
the studs fairly easily. 8. Like anything else in an old house,
be extra careful! There weren't building codes when many of
these houses were built so there is no guarantee that you wall
studs are evenly spaced, that there aren't old pipes in the
walls, or that abandoned and antiquated plumbing and electrical
lines exist in the walls.
Remember, work slowly and smartly! Never rush an old house
project. Take a few minutes to think things out several times.
You will still run into surprises, but if you work slowly and
deliberately, hopefully, they won't ruin your day
About the Author
Dean Novosat is an avid do-it-yourselfer and remodeler. He has transformed every home he has lived in. He has several websites
including
http://www.build-decks-patios.com
